Bacanora

Bacanora farm

The ‘secret’ spirit of Sonora is having a renaissance

All over Mexico there are agave that produce liquor, the most well known being tequila and mezcal. One of the lesser known spirits is Bacanora which is a regional mezcal produced in the mountains of Sonora.

Derived from the Agave angustifolia (pacifica), this drink has been around for hundreds of years and its production was widespread and small-scale. In 1915 it was outlawed by the government and it went underground to become Sonora’s equivalent of moonshine. Not until 1992 did the ban get lifted and in 2000 Bacanora was formally granted a Denomination of Origin. There are 35 municipalities that are a part of this DO. While most producers have been traditionally relatively small, like anything, there are now bigger ones moving in as the popularity and profitability of Bacanora grows.

The terroir determines a lot about the flavor and feeling of the spirit. In the case of Bacanora it’s the dry, arid climate, the hot days and cold nights of Sonora that give it its alluring flavor. The final product of the drink is further influenced by how it’s picked, processed, crushed, distilled and stored. 

It’s a dry, clear, relatively smooth, savory, peppery with an earthy finish that lingers on the palate. Some Bacanora can have a bit of a smoky finish if the ‘piñas’ have been roasted in wood fires, which is the traditional way. The piñas can also be steamed at high heat and this process produces a less smoky drink. 

Patience is required for this final product since the agaves take around 7 years to grow before being ready to harvest, and the process of making it is labor intensive and time sensitive. There are many small ‘bacanoreros’ that are still doing things in a very old school, low tech way and make small, hand-crafted batches. Others are implementing more modern techniques and producing a differently delicious drink.

In the Álamos region, we are witnessing the Bacanora boom first hand and have enjoyed forging new friendships with several producers who love welcoming our ALAMANOS groups.